Diamond Handbook
Table of Contents
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Acknowledgments
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8
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Preface
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9
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1. Basic Facts about Diamonds
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11
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What is Diamond?
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11
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How are Diamonds Formed?
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11
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Where are Diamonds Found?
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12
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A Closer Look at Diamond's Remarkable Properties
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12
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What Type of Magnification is Used to View Diamonds?
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16
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Which Type of Lighting is Best for Viewing Diamonds?
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16
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Other Tips on Viewing Diamonds
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18
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2. Diamond Price Factors
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19
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Why the 4 C's is No Longer an Adequate Pricing System
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19
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Price Factors Explained
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20
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Color
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20
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Carat Weight
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22
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Cut Quality
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23
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Cutting Style and Stone Shape
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24
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Clarity
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26
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Transparency
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31
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Treatment Status
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35
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3. Judging the Cut of Fancy Shapes
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37
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Judging Cut Quality
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38
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Bow Ties and Other Dark Patterns
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39
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Windows
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42
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Fisheyes
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44
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Excess Diamond Weight
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44
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4. Judging Cut (Round Brilliants)
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47
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Pavilion
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47
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Crown
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50
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Table
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52
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Girdle
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53
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Culet
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56
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Star Facet Length %
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56
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Lower Girdle Facet %
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56
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Symmetry
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57
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Polish
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58
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"Ideal-Cut Diamonds"
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58
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GIA and AGS Cut Grading Factors Compared
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59
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5. Judging Light Performance
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61
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Methods for Judging Light Performance
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62
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Gem Labs that Assess Light Performance
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64
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Tips on Evaluating Light Performance Visually
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70
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6. A Closer Look at Clarity
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75
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Clarity Grades
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75
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Diamond Clarity Examples
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78
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7. Fluorescence
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87
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Diamond Fluorescence
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88
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What Causes Diamond Fluorescence?
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89
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Is Ultraviolet Lighting the Same as Fluorescent Lighting?
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89
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Are Fluorescent Diamonds Undesirable?
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90
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My Advice Regarding Diamond Fluorescence
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91
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8. Synthetic Diamonds
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93
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What are Synthetic Diamonds?
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93
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How Does Growing Diamonds Differ from Culturing Pearls?
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93
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Detecting Synthetic Diamonds
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94
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Diamond Types
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100
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9. Diamond Treatments
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103
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Methods for Changing Color
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104
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Foil backing
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104
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Coating
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104
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Irradiation
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108
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High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) Treatment
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108
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High Temperature Heat Treatment
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111
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Methods for Improving Clarity
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111
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Laser Drilling
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111
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Fracture Filling
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113
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10. Judging Fancy Colored Diamonds
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117
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Evaluating Fancy Colored Diamonds
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122
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Fancy Colored Diamond Rarity
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125
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11. Antique Cuts and Jewelry
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129
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The History of Diamond Cuts
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129
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Pricing Antique Diamonds
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137
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Period Jewelry (European and American)
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138
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Jewelry Periods
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139
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Georgian (1714-1837)
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139
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Victorian (1837-1901)
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140
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Arts and Crafts Movement (1890-1910)
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142
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Art Nouveau (1890-1910)
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142
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Edwardian (1890-1915)
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143
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Art Deco (1915-1935)
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145
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Retro (1935-1955)
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148
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12. Recutting Diamonds
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149
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How do Cutters Modify Diamond Color?
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152
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Getting your Diamond(s) Recut
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154
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13. Branded Diamonds
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155
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14. Diamond Grading Reports
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163
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Mini-certs
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166
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How Reproducible are Lab Grades?
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167
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Addresses of some Diamond Grading Labs
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167
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Glossary
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171
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Chemical, Physical and Optical Characteristics of Diamonds
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177
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Bibliography
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179
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Index
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183
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